Just by looking at its ruby color you can tell that you’re in for a fantastic ride. The nose is beautifully balanced and confirms that the magic of aging is well underway: Prune, dried currant, pencil shavings and graphite notes. On the palate, licorice, toast, vanilla and leather with a dusty quality to the finish; very layered and rich in the mouth.——M.L.(9/1/2006)—— 92