Weingut Moric Neckenmarkt Blaufrankisch Alte Reben, Burgenland, Austria

莫里克藍(lán)佛朗克干紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：4046

Velich’s 2006 Blaufrankisch Neckenmarkter Alte Reben delivers the predictable aromas and flavors of concentrated black fruits, along with sweetly smoky suggestions of machine oil and Szechuan pepper, as well as pungently smoky Lapsang tea. Here, the animal and mineral aspects seem to merge into a concentrate of soy, sea water, and beef stock. Rich and silken-textured, this wine’s tannins are so refined as to have melted away. A deep, low-toned, multi-dimensional, rolling finish washes over the palate, leaving behind invigorating brightness of fruit, subtle fruit pit bitterness, and a shimmering diversity of mineral suggestions that one feels must somehow reflect this wine’s origins in the Urgestein upper elevations of Neckenmarkt. I would tentatively plan on following this for a decade, but as to having some in your cellar to follow, that plan ought not in the least be tentative!Roland Velich’s Moric project (about which I have written extensively in issues 160 and 177) becomes more exciting by the year, and the 2007 and 2008 vintages will each mark the inception in bottle of new wines involving the re-discovery of forgotten sites and old vines, including a joint Blaufrankisch project with Hannes Schuster in Zagersdorf, whose 2007 debut was quite exciting from cask. Also beginning with the 2007 vintage, incidentally, Velich tentatively envisions a regional blend incorporating some Zweigelt as his introductory level wine.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com

Velich's 2005 Blaufrankisch Neckenmarkter Alte Reben offers mulberry, blackberry, smoked meat and wood smoke aromas. Sappy, juicy, and persistent on the palate, its underlying suggestions of stone, graphite and chalk provide a striking demonstration of -minerality- (whatever it may be that actually engenders these flavors!), in what was a very challenging vintage. This may lose a bit of its austerity over the next couple of years, and will probably be worth returning to for 4-6 years. But in truth, as striking and delicious as these wines are in their youth, only time will demonstrate the aging potential of Moric Blaufrankisch. Velich's 2006 reds look to be at least as successful as his 2004s, but I shall report on them only as a group, after all have been bottled. His 2005 Blaufrankisch collection testifies to the quality that was possible in a rain-plagued vintage, if one had well-drained and -ventilated soils, was prepared to wait on this late-ripening variety, and exercised stringent selection and impeccable vinification. All of the wines weighed in at under 13% alcohol (a few lots were lightly chaptalized) but do not taste deficient in ripeness.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com.

The 2004 Blaufrankisch Neckenmarkt Alte Reben has more than lived up to the billing I gave it in Issue 166. Black fruits, black tea, sandalwood, and diverse flowers make for an alluring aromatic display. Juicy black fruit intensity on the palate is allied to fine tannins, a silken texture, and terrific depth of clean, raw meat and mineral (salt, graphite, chalk) suggestions. Truly palate-staining and thought-provoking in its finishing intensity and complexity, this beauty - among the handful of finest Austrian red wines in my dozen years of experience - should reward at least 7-10 years of cellaring. Amazingly, last I checked, there were still some remaining stocks in the United States.Velich's 2006 reds look to be at least as successful as his 2004s, but I shall report on them only as a group, after all have been bottled. His 2005 Blaufrankisch collection testifies to the quality that was possible in a rain-plagued vintage, if one had well-drained and -ventilated soils, was prepared to wait on this late-ripening variety, and exercised stringent selection and impeccable vinification. All of the wines weighed in at under 13% alcohol (a few lots were lightly chaptalized) but do not taste deficient in ripeness.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com.