This is an amazing wine. It’s bone-dry and very high in acidity, one of the most distinctive white wines in California. The racy quality supports intense flavors of steely minerals, orange and lime zest and apricots, wrapped into a rich, oily texture. It accomplishes the magic of tasting honey-sweet but finishing thoroughly dry. Will age, too. A 2001, tasted alongside, was terrific.——S.H.(8/1/2008)—— 94