orlando abrigo tutto a mano valmaggiore nebbiolo (nebbiolo d'alba)

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The 2015 Nebbiolo d'Alba Valmaggiore Tutto A Mano is a balanced and fresh expression, showing round and ripe fruit with soft lines and a mid-weight approach. The bouquet is redolent of black fruit, dried blackberry and simple spice. Don't bother poking around for intricacies here; this is another immediate expression from Orlando Abrigo to pair with, again, simple homemade dishes. Giovanni Abrigo farms 2.7 hectares of 35-year-old vines (planted in sandy soils) in the Valmaggiore cru of Roero, in the township of Vezza d'Alba. Some 8,000 bottles were produced.

Here's another worthwhile wine from one of my favorite single vineyards in the Roero area of the Langhe. I love fruit from the Valmaggiore vineyard. The 2014 Nebbiolo d'Alba Valmaggiore Tutto A Mano is a bit fragile and fleeting in this vintage, so be mindful. Pay attention while those aromas of wild rose, licorice and smoke tease but don't linger. Some 8,000 bottles were made.

Orlando Abrigo's 2013 Nebbiolo d'Alba Valmaggiore Tutto A Mano is a terrific red wine made with fruit sourced from one of Piedmont's powerhouse cru sites. Valmaggiore is the force behind some of the greatest Nebbiolo d'Alba wines on the market today. The finish is a touch bitter.

The 2012 Nebbiolo d'Alba Valmaggiore Tutto a Mano is a simple wine with clean lines and a direct approach. You can't beat the food-friendly appeal of a red wine like this: It has the natural structure and acidity to pair with steak in creamy mushroom sauce and its aromas are mild and non-intrusive. They won't get in the way of perfumed herbs or spicy flavors. The wine ends with bright berry and cola.

The 2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore Tutto a Mano is a touch more floral and spicy than the Langhe Nebbiolo, with an attractive openness to the fruit and less overt oak influence. It, too, is a delicious entry-level Nebbiolo. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. This year I tasted a wide range of wines from Abrigo, a small producer who seems to do his best work with Nebbiolo. The Barbareschi in particular are impressive and point to a talented grower who seems to be getting the most from his vineyards. Importer: Vera Food & Wine, Springfield, NJ; tel. (973) 912-0274