Take all the plush softness up a notch and you get the 2009 Barbera d’Alba Mervisano that is even more determined to make a statement regarding Barbera’s controversial sharpness: Some people love the high natural acidity and others hate it. The message here is that the grape can be tamed with a little barrel and bottle aging (it ages in barrique for up to 15 months). It is a “modern” interpretation for sure, but the results are delicious. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2017.
It’s been a big year for Giovanni Abrigo and his wife Virna (of the eponymous winery in Barolo). He put the finishing touches on an underground winery that is invisible to the eye thanks to a lush covering of grapevines and rose bushes. As a young man, Giovanni wanted to study engineering, but the call of the vineyard was so strong, he never admitted that to his parents. Like many of his peers, he ended up enrolling in Alba’s school of enology instead. He is the third generation of his family to mind the vineyard and he has increased his holdings to 18 hectares, up from three in his grandfather’s time. He owns three hectares in the Montersino cru and four in Meruzzano. That old thirst for engineering, he says, was more than quenched with all the intense trouble-shooting (and a good amount of head scratching) associated with his recent winery construction.
Importer: Vi.Sco, Brooklyn, NY; tel. (631) 944-2487