Pascal Bouchard Chablis Vieille Vignes, Burgundy, France

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The Bouchard 2008 Chablis Vieilles Vignes – brought up in a combination of tank and older barrels, and bottled only after 11 months – represents a considerable qualitative jump from their other 2008 vintage cuvees of generic appellation, with musky, fusil notes providing bookends to a subtly creamy yet at the same time vivacious, subtly mirabelle-skin chewy and subtly saline mid-palate. It should perform admirably for at least the next 2-3 years. Incidentally, Bouchard’s spicy, pink-grapefruit infused, and surprisingly opulent – over 13% alcohol – 2009 Petit Chablis should prove very enjoyable over the coming 12-18 months. Pascal Bouchard’s large, north-western Chablis-oriented estate – which I visited this April for the first time in many years – supplements its production with contract fruit. Among Bouchard’s premier crus, only their Beauroy (from purchased grapes) is machine-harvested, and around one-third of their generic Chablis sites are hand-harvested. I have argued and continue to insist that the evidence by no means rules out impressive results via machines, but their relative insignificance at this address is certainly an indication of Bouchard’s seriousness about and willingness to sacrifice in what they believe is the interest of quality.Importers include William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463