Pascal Bouchard Vaudesir, Chablis Grand Cru, France

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The Bouchard 2008 Chablis Vaudesir smells of mint pear, lime rind, and cress; comes to the palate metaphorically cool, refreshing yet substantial; and finishes with bright length and the promise of a least half a dozen years’ satisfaction. Oily, Latakia-like smoky, fusil, and crushed stone notes add a sense of Chablis-typical, mineral mystery; and slightly gritty grip makes up in interest for anything it might take away in polish. Pascal Bouchard’s large, north-western Chablis-oriented estate – which I visited this April for the first time in many years – supplements its production with contract fruit. Among Bouchard’s premier crus, only their Beauroy (from purchased grapes) is machine-harvested, and around one-third of their generic Chablis sites are hand-harvested. I have argued and continue to insist that the evidence by no means rules out impressive results via machines, but their relative insignificance at this address is certainly an indication of Bouchard’s seriousness about and willingness to sacrifice in what they believe is the interest of quality.Importers include William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

A soft wine, its flavors initially out of focus. It develops slowly, showing rich flavors from the wood, the structure smothered in a soft cushion. It is perhaps too ample for its own good. ——R.V.(5/1/2011)—— 88

Gently scented. Tight intensity and grip. Flavour undeveloped but has attractive saltiness and length. Classy; will improve.