Pascal Bouchard Blanchot, Chablis Grand Cru, France

帕薩克爾布蘭卓特干白葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：4553

Fermented and aged in French oak. Quite solid and nutty on both nose and palate, balanced with good acidity and an elegant finish.

Hints of lanolin and resin from barrel rise from the glass of Bouchard’s 2008 Chablis Blanchots, which evinces radish-like sharpness and muskiness on the palate that don’t harmonize with the wood. This is rather closed-in overall and might benefit from some time in bottle (even short term), but while there is undeniable textural richness to which the incisive aspects lend counterpoint, I would want to re-visit this in a year before being willing to wholeheartedly endorse it, let alone predict its bottle evolution. Pascal Bouchard’s large, north-western Chablis-oriented estate – which I visited this April for the first time in many years – supplements its production with contract fruit. Among Bouchard’s premier crus, only their Beauroy (from purchased grapes) is machine-harvested, and around one-third of their generic Chablis sites are hand-harvested. I have argued and continue to insist that the evidence by no means rules out impressive results via machines, but their relative insignificance at this address is certainly an indication of Bouchard’s seriousness about and willingness to sacrifice in what they believe is the interest of quality.Importers include William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

Orange and lime zest in the nose of Bouchard’s 2007 Chablis Blanchots set the tone for a bitter-sweet, candied citrus rind and toasted-nut character on a creamy palate, tinged with salt and suffused with chalk dust. This is rather understated in finish and lacking vintage-typical brightness, but is impressive for its imposing sense of ripeness and its textural polish and allure. Perhaps it will have more to say for itself in another couple of years. It strikes me, however, as likely to be best enjoyed over the next half-dozen. I had not encountered the wines of Pascal Bouchard in many years and found the subset that I tasted this year unusually soft and rich in style for the vintage, and promising as a group. While not enormously concentrated or emphatic, they display considerable polish and bespeak serious intentions and deft technique.Imported by Wineberry America LLC, New York, NY; tel. (212) 481-0322