Passopisciaro Guardiola, Sicily, Italy

帕索皮西亞洛酒莊瓜迪奧拉白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：424

A pure expression of Chardonnay, the 2013 Guardiola is a lush and generous expression with full body, sensual appeal. The bouquet is profound and fluid with pretty aromas of toasted cereal, tropical fruit, apricot, honey and white rose. The bouquet also reveals those dusty mineral notes that are characteristic of volcanic winemaking. It shows a rich and supple texture with creamy layers.

Immediately recognizable as Chardonnay, the 2012 Guardiola opens to soft notes of exotic fruit, pineapple, citrus, stone fruit and creamy vanilla. It shows fleshy density and a bright off-gold color. The wine is aged in large oak casks for four months and then sees five months in cement. This is a beautiful white wine, loaded with character and mineral-driven volcanic subtext. Drink 2014-2022. Andrea Franchetti is the original “man against the volcano.” This eccentric and utterly charming nobleman from Tuscany fell in love with Etna and decided to set up shop in the sleepy town of Passopisciaro following his success at Tenuta di Trinoro in Sarteano, Siena Province. As Andrea tells it, the Etna challenge was anything but easy. He fought with local sheepherders for control of his own property and is often under the threat of forest fires (from both arsonists and volcanic molten lava). For years, he was seen as an outsider within the closed and insular Etna community. But Andrea Franchetti’s contribution to the wine culture that now flourishes on Etna cannot be overstated. He is one of the founding fathers of this pioneering appellation. I once asked Andrea if he preferred making wine in Tuscany or Etna. “Sometimes I consider leaving Tuscany and coming to Etna full time,” he replied. Importer: T. Edward Wines, www.tedwardwines.com

The 2011 Guardiola (Chardonnay) boasts impeccable richness and class in its juicy peaches, lemon, white flowers and spices. Insistent veins of minerality frame the long, finish. The 2011 is a gorgeous, totally pure expression of Chardonnay from the slopes of the Etna. I would not be surprised if the 2011 opens over the next 6-12 months, as it had just been bottled at the time of my tastings. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Andrea Franchetti describes 2010 as a cold year on the Etna that yielded wines of energy and cut. That is certainly the recurring theme in this set of new releases. Once again, Franchetti has produced a number of wines that set the bar for what can be achieved on the Etna. This is a stunning set of new releases. Importer: T. Edward Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 233-1504

The 2010 Guardiola (Chardonnay) impresses for a rich, textured fabric of peaches, apricots and flowers. Clean mineral notes emerge over time, adding focus and drive. A long, multi-dimensional finish rounds things out nicely. This is a beautiful, intense white from Andrea Franchetti. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2017. This is another set of fabulous wines from Andrea Franchetti. This year Franchetti has changed the labels of his single-contrada Nerello Mascaleses, which now only bear the first letter of their respective contradas on the front label. The back labels list the full information of each vineyard site. As good as the 2009s Nerellos are, I see less of a difference among the bottlings than in 2008. Importer: T. Edward Wines, Ltd., New York, NY; tel. (212) 233-1504

The 2007 Guardiola (Chardonnay) is a gorgeous new white from Andrea Franchetti. Notes of apricots, peaches, earthiness and minerals all come together in this precise, mid-weight offering. The wine literally shimmers on the palate as it opens up in the glass, showing tons of detail and clarity. I am curious to see how this wine develops with a few years in bottle, but it is highly promising even at this stage. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. Andrea Franchetti wasn’t content to just make profound wines at his Tuscan estate, Tentua di Trinoro, so he set out to replicate that success at Passopisciaro, his property on Mount Etna. These new releases are nothing less than breathtaking. Importer: T. Edward Wines, Ltd., New York, NY; tel. (212) 233-1504