The 1995 Cote Rotie Les Dames Brunes is an elegant, soft, attractive Cote Rotie with licorice, pepper, and cassis scents, low acidity, supple, medium-bodied flavors, and surprising length and intensity. This impressive Cote Rotie lingers on the palate longer than I initially expected. Drinkable now, this wine will age for 7-8 years.Patrick Lesec continues to build his portfolio of handcrafted wines, buying specific cuvees from producers, and having them (1) bottled with low levels of SO2, and (2) usually without any aroma, flavor, and texture-stripping fining and filtration. This wine is a well-made, textbook example. Patrick Lesec Selections (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42843822), various American importers.