The 2009 Syrah La Bruma Estate is a fabulous, totally intriguing wine loaded with varietal character and nuance. Black pepper, blackberries, spices, mint and graphite are some of the many notes that flow from this intensely perfumed, layered Syrah. This is a fabulous, cold-weather Syrah from Peay. I especially like the energy of the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Peay is one of the most intriguing young wineries in Sonoma. Brothers Andy and Nick Peay bought their property in 1996 and began planting in 1998. This site, near Annapolis, is in the coldest part of Sonoma County. When things go well, the harvest takes place in October. Two tons per acre – considered very low anywhere else in the world – is a very generous harvest here. Normal yields are in the 1.3-1.5 tons per acre range. Vanessa Wong, Nick Peay’s wife and a veteran of Peter Michael and Hirsch, makes the wines.Tel. (707) 894-8720