Pierre-Marie Chermette Pierreux, Brouilly, France

威蘇酒莊皮埃爾干紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3733

Scents of ripe blueberry and of Garrigue-like herbal scrub mingle in the nose of Chermette's 2010 Brouilly Pierreux, which comes onto the palate tartly and piquantly, with pungent herbs and bitter huckleberry persisting into a brightly and stimulatingly persistent finish. This relatively lean Brouilly should be fascinating to follow at table over the coming 3-4 years, during which I would not be surprised to see it fill-out a bit - and, in fact, it's having been in bottle only three weeks when I tasted may explain its relative tightness. Pierre Chermette - for more about whom, consult in particular my report in issue 184 - didn't start picking his 2010s until September 23rd, with Moulin-a-Vent and Fleurie Les Garants; and completed his harvest of the estate's majority Appellation Beaujolais vineyards on October 5. "Really, the quality was comparable to that of 2009," he asserts, "just at a full degree less alcohol and with higher acidity. Vinification was easy." Yields, he adds, were comparable, and only a slightly more stringent selection of fruit was required than in 2009.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

High-toned kirsch, blueberry, plum distillate, and maraschino rise from the glass of Chermette’s 2009 Brouilly Pierreux, whose tiny-berried palate concentration is allied to a caressing mouth-feel, and which offers iodine, crushed stone, and walnut oil accents in a long, buoyant finish. While even riper than this year’s Couer de Vendange, this is more elegant, and ought to be worth following for 3-4 years. Pierre Chermette – for more about whom, consult my report in issue 184 – picked his crus from September 7-15 and his vines in the South of Beaujolais the week following, managing to keep alcohols below 13.5%.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

There are fascinating mineral nuances and a striking degree of lift in the finish. In its third year now, Chermette’s 2008 Brouilly Pierreux brims with cassis and blueberry, underlain by nutty richness and hints of wet stone. Medium-bodied, it nevertheless evinces a good sense of lift and refreshment, tart fruit skin and almost horseradish like pungency lending striking invigoration to the finish. Enjoy this over the next 2-3 years. Pierre Chermette has successfully expanded from his base in southern Beaujolais without quality in any way suffering; on the contrary his mastery of the northern Beaujolais crus is now also a fait accompli. With the new generation coming on and with lots of new plans, following these wines – which, of course, includes in your own cellar – is going to continue to be exciting. Prices have crept upward, but given the quality – not to mention the labors needed to achieve it – one can hardly complain. Yields were very low in 2008, a condition, Chermette opines, for achieving genuine and complete ripeness. (Note that since Chermette’s label now features his name writ large and “Vissoux” in tiny letters, I have listed his wines accordingly.)Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800