Seems more bretty, gaseous and muddled than it should be. The nose is burnt and rustic, and to an extent so is the palate. Mouthfeel is quite good, and that’s a saving grace because overall there’s an earthy, leathery thing going on that doesn’t really mesh with the Argentine model of clean bold fruit, oak and not much else. ——M.S.(12/1/2008)—— 84