The ‘goldkap,’ or ‘gold capsule,’ in this wine’s designation indicates a riper cuvee than the producer’s ordinary spatlese. As expected, the fruit is exuberant and lush with hints of tinned apricots and peach jam. An underlying note of lemon zest enlivens the palate and carries over to the long, flowery finish. There’s lots of sweetness here; consider serving on its own. ——W.E.(6/1/2010)—— 91