Radio-Coteau 'Terra Neuma' Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, USA

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The biodynamic vineyard that Sussman sources for the 2014 Pinot Noir Terra Neuma is a cold site as well with very low yields, The clonal selections here are limited to Dijon 155 and 777. This wine gets the same oak treatment as the La Neblina, and the result is a floral, almost Musigny grand cru-like Pinot Noir with a very Burgundian personality. Crushed rocks, spring flowers, raspberries and black cherries are all present in this wine, which has medium to full body, terrific fruit intensity, purity and overall texture. Drink it over the next decade.

The 2012 Pinot Noir Terra Neuma comes from a biodynamically farmed vineyard and 10% whole clusters were used (in contrast to the Savoy which had no whole clusters). From a cold area of the Sonoma Coast, it possesses elegant pomegranate, red currant and plum-like notes intermixed with forest floor and a distinct earthy character. With excellent ripeness as well as a Pommard premier cru-like, Burgundian style, it should drink well for 5-7 years.

The 2011 Pinot Noir Terra Neuma shows the richness and weight of the Dijon clones. Layers of expressive dark red fruit caress in a rich, textured Pinot that is quite large scale for the Sonoma Coast. This is a firm, big, broad-shouldered, structured wine with perhaps a touch less finesse than the very best Pinots in this lineup, but still terrific. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578

A bright, focused wine, the 2009 Pinot Noir Terra Neuma is laced with pine, mint, cloves and dark red fruit. This is another Radio-Coteau wine with plenty of cool-climate character. Juicy and expressive on the mid-palate and finish, the 2009 is all about balance and harmony. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2024. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578

The deep ruby/purple-tinged 2009 Pinot Noir Terra Neuma reveals more blue fruit and black raspberry notes in addition to sweet, round, luscious fruit, decent acids and silky tannins. It is made from Dijon clones 115, 777 and 828. Proprietor Eric Sussman seems to go from strength to strength at this small boutique winery. One of the buzz words in the wine world is -natural- winemaking, which has no real definition and is often shamelessly used to promote a certain style of wine. Yet Radio-Coteau is a great example of 'natural winemaking' native indigenous fermentations, incredibly low usage of SO2 and biodynamically farmed vineyards. Then add the fact that the wines are bottled without fining or filtration. Of course, human beings/civilization have to intervene in the winemaking process, so until grapes are produced that can detach themselves from the vine and hop, skip and jump to a fermenter and make themselves, we will never have 100% 'natural' wines. Eric Sussman's three 2008 Syrahs have also turned out fabulously well, with all of them living up to the higher end of my barrel tasting range of scores of last year. The 2009 Syrahs are not as intense as their 2008 counterparts. However, given how Eric Sussman's wines often put on weight in the barrel, my current ratings may look conservative a year from now.Tel. (707) 823-2578; Fax (707) 823-2112