The Ratzenbergers’ 2008 Grauburgunder trocken reflects the success they have had for several years now (selling the wine mostly in Germany and Japan) with Pinot Gris of elegance and refreshment, distinctly marked by its slatey (albeit fine particulate rather than hard stone) origins. Scents of ripe peach, mint, and brown spices presage a lusciously peachy and subtly stone-inflected palate, and a glossy texture offers pleasant counterpoint to the wine’s vivacity. Salty, nutty notes contribute considerable interest to the finish, and a suggestion of peach skin enhances the sense of invigoration. This versatile wine is for enjoying over the next couple of years. It was picked on October 10, by the way, ten days before the serious Riesling harvest got going at this address. When you taste a collection like this year’s from the two Jochen Ratzenbergers, you have to wonder why their wines’ consistent quality; track record for aging; and frequently stellar performances do not make this one of the most talked-about estates in Germany. (Maybe I shouldn’t wish that on us!) In fact, they are quite well-respected at home, but I think there is a certain snobbishness that rebounds against even the best Mittelrhein Riesling because this region’s precious half-timbered villages and crenellated slopes spell “tourist country” to most German wine lovers.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644
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