From relatively recently re-grafted vines in this great site, von Kesselstatt's 2006 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling Grosses Gewachs features ester-rich plum and plum pit in a palate-saturating, voluminous, brothy, low-toned alliance with wet stone and toasted nuts. The almost spiritous suggestions of fruit pit, together with the sense of crushed stone suffusion lend this a somewhat Chablis-like aspect (if you somehow substitute slate for Kimmeridgian chalk). Somewhat austere but convincingly long, I would enjoy this wine over the next several years but lack the experience with Kesselstatt's dry wines (or their stylistic evolution, let alone track record in bottle) to prognosticate beyond that. -We organized early,- says Annegret Reh-Gartner, -and then harvested in two weeks what we usually harvest in four.- She felt her hand was forced on the Saar when many of their vineyards were hailed on September 30, but by the time the crew was mobilized the heavy rain of October 3 was upon them.Various importers including: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424