The smoky, pithy von Kesselstatt 2006 Graacher Riesling trocken is strongly marked by peach kernel and toasted almond, quite dense on the palate, and similarly pithy and low-toned in finish. There has been a tendency in a number of trocken Riesling I have tasted from this address over the past three vintages to be relatively austere, however when (as in the present instance) that is combined with a sense of stuffing but no bitterness, drying, or heat from higher alcohol (a problem with some of their Grosses Gewachs bottlings) the results can no doubt prove quite food friendly. Still, I suspect this particular wine, if paired carefully, will serve well over the next couple of years. (The sweet Kabinett from this site, while recommendable, was considerably less interesting or delicious.) -We organized early,- says Annegret Reh-Gartner, -and then harvested in two weeks what we usually harvest in four.- She felt her hand was forced on the Saar when many of their vineyards were hailed on September 30, but by the time the crew was mobilized the heavy rain of October 3 was upon them.Various importers including: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424
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