Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Mosel, Germany

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An interesting example of dry Riesling, one that displays a dense, honeyed bouquet and flavors that resemble honey but without the sweetness. Hard to imagine, but that’s the closest approximation I can come up with. It’s creamy on the midpalate and fairly full bodied (12.5% abv) for a wine from this far north. ——J.C.(6/1/2011)—— 89

The peach kernel bitterness prominently displayed in Kesselstatt’s 2008 Scharzhofberger Riesling Grosses Gewachs at least seems part and parcel of the site character, and is integrated into a fascinating amalgam suggesting browned butter, nut oils, and incipiently caramelized yellow plum and peach. Lemon, herbs, and salt add welcome prickle, pungency, and invigoration in the persistent finish. I would suggest serving this over the next 5-7 years, and its intriguing aspects may prove highly rewarding, although I admit to still harboring some prejudice about Scharzhofberger in trocken format, which this wine in itself certainly does not dispel. Annegret Reh’s 2008s display their acids somewhat more prominently than did her 2007s. While for the second year running neither alcoholic heat nor roughness were an impediment to her penchant for dry Grosse Gewachse, this did not mean that the trocken end of the spectrum here was always that ideally-balanced, as there was not only tartness but considerable bitterness to deal with as well. This enormous estate has made great strides, but I think that stylistically they could be more sensitive to the message of their terrific vineyards, at least to the extent that their customer base allows (since the Germans demand of them trocken). In my view, Reh’s move toward more flexibility with and a wider range of residual sugar in the off-dry half of the Kesselstatt portfolio, especially Kabinett, is an excellent step in that direction, but “Grosse Gewachse” of 10-15 grams residual sugar would be an even better one! Incidentally, machine harvesters (first used here, as at many top-notch German estates, in the hectic 2006 vintage) were employed this year in some of the more accessible and less distinguished sites in order to buy time for the entire crop to hang longer, although even so, picking began in mid-October, and concluded November 8.Various importers including: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424