Reinhold Haart Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Eiswein, Mosel, Germany

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After having in 2009 picked in the Ohligsberg their estate’s first Eiswein since 1998, they turned right around and managed a 2010 Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Eiswein too, although snow rendered it hard to access the parcel on the morning of December 4. Despite the proclivity of their Ohligsberg acreage for botrytization, Haarts said that most of the ennobled berries had been picked out before this frozen harvest. Prickly citrus rind, yellow plum distillate, apple jack, musk oil, wood smoke, dark honey, and generally wild, animal scents dominate in the nose. There is sharp brightness of raw lemon juice on the palpably dense palate that isn’t entirely mollified by rich dark honey. Compressed, dried yellow plum and apple contribute their own sense of severity that leads to a finish at once chewy and almost electric-shockingly bright, but to be sure phenomenally persistent. It’s impossible to predict this wine’s future evolution with anything remotely approaching confidence, other than to note that only slightly masochistic pleasure could be derived from it for the next several years.Theo and Johannes Haart commenced harvesting already in mid-October, no later than they had last year, and were finished by month’s end. Their diversity of sites permitted a significant amount of genuine Kabinett to be picked as well as concentrated high must-weight and ennobled bottlings. De-acidification was performed with double-salt on the must, generally affecting only certain lots of an eventual cuvee. Many 2010 collections displayed – as their wines’ levels of Oechsle climbed into the stratosphere – a falling-away, if not of ultimate quality, then certainly of my confidence in it; but in the present instance, that happened only after some impressive successes had been racked up along the way. With a couple of exceptions that were entirely botrytis-free and fermented rapidly, most of this year’s collection was bottled in July and August, significantly later than usual. Incidentally, both the Haarts and Andreas Adam report that wild boar – an increasing problem throughout the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer – have reached such destructive proportions in Piesport that there is talk of trying to erect a huge fence around the entirety of this famous village’s prime acreage.”Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596- 9463