At under 300 liters, there is less than a third as much Haart 2010 Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs as there is of the corresponding Goldtropfchen. Not only is there far less surface area for Haarts to pick over, they relate that botrytis was much more prevalent in Ohligsberg. In contrast with the Goldtropfchen, this finished on the cusp of halbtrocken, though with the same 12.5% alcohol. Far less expressive, it evinces prominent lemon, green apple, and crushed stone tinged with wood smoke; its density and sheer persistence are formidable, but allied to a relative opacity as well as austerity, and pronouncedly cyanic piquancy. Perhaps in time this will gain differentiation, clarity, or charm, but I would monitor it closely over the next several years, because its bitterness could also become more pronounced. Theo and Johannes Haart commenced harvesting already in mid-October, no later than they had last year, and were finished by month’s end. Their diversity of sites permitted a significant amount of genuine Kabinett to be picked as well as concentrated high must-weight and ennobled bottlings. De-acidification was performed with double-salt on the must, generally affecting only certain lots of an eventual cuvee. Many 2010 collections displayed – as their wines’ levels of Oechsle climbed into the stratosphere – a falling-away, if not of ultimate quality, then certainly of my confidence in it; but in the present instance, that happened only after some impressive successes had been racked up along the way. With a couple of exceptions that were entirely botrytis-free and fermented rapidly, most of this year’s collection was bottled in July and August, significantly later than usual. Incidentally, both the Haarts and Andreas Adam report that wild boar – an increasing problem throughout the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer – have reached such destructive proportions in Piesport that there is talk of trying to erect a huge fence around the entirety of this famous village’s prime acreage.”Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596- 9463
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