While Haarts’ delicate village-level Kabinett was a bit awkwardly sweet-sour and lacking in middle for now, their 2010 Piesporter Goldtropchen Riesling Kabinett – while very ripe in flavors and palpably extract rich – properly exemplifies both its site and genre. Pineapple, pink grapefruit and cassis entice the nose and inform a silken-textured yet refreshing palate. Even with 60 grams of residual sugar, this doesn’t come off as overtly much less awkwardly sweet, and its high acids are perceived as nervous energy. Fusil, wet stone, and black tea overtones add complexity to the scents and flavors delivered here, and additional clarity may be among the rewards if one follows bottles for 12-15 years. Theo and Johannes Haart commenced harvesting already in mid-October, no later than they had last year, and were finished by month’s end. Their diversity of sites permitted a significant amount of genuine Kabinett to be picked as well as concentrated high must-weight and ennobled bottlings. De-acidification was performed with double-salt on the must, generally affecting only certain lots of an eventual cuvee. Many 2010 collections displayed – as their wines’ levels of Oechsle climbed into the stratosphere – a falling-away, if not of ultimate quality, then certainly of my confidence in it; but in the present instance, that happened only after some impressive successes had been racked up along the way. With a couple of exceptions that were entirely botrytis-free and fermented rapidly, most of this year’s collection was bottled in July and August, significantly later than usual. Incidentally, both the Haarts and Andreas Adam report that wild boar – an increasing problem throughout the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer – have reached such destructive proportions in Piesport that there is talk of trying to erect a huge fence around the entirety of this famous village’s prime acreage.”Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596- 9463
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