The Haart 2010 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Auslese #16 represents a significant spread of botrytis, reflected in the glycerin and honey that accompany its apple and red currant jellies. But there are vibrantly juicy lemon, pineapple and grapefruit here as well, leading to a finish of sappy cling and considerable sheer refreshment. This dense yet strikingly vivacious Auslese of only 7% alcohol is not in the least burdened by either its botrytis or its high residual sugar. It ought to perform well for at least the next quarter century. Theo and Johannes Haart commenced harvesting already in mid-October, no later than they had last year, and were finished by month’s end. Their diversity of sites permitted a significant amount of genuine Kabinett to be picked as well as concentrated high must-weight and ennobled bottlings. De-acidification was performed with double-salt on the must, generally affecting only certain lots of an eventual cuvee. Many 2010 collections displayed – as their wines’ levels of Oechsle climbed into the stratosphere – a falling-away, if not of ultimate quality, then certainly of my confidence in it; but in the present instance, that happened only after some impressive successes had been racked up along the way. With a couple of exceptions that were entirely botrytis-free and fermented rapidly, most of this year’s collection was bottled in July and August, significantly later than usual. Incidentally, both the Haarts and Andreas Adam report that wild boar – an increasing problem throughout the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer – have reached such destructive proportions in Piesport that there is talk of trying to erect a huge fence around the entirety of this famous village’s prime acreage.”Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596- 9463