Reinhold Haart Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Spatlese, Mosel, Germany

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The Haart 2010 Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Spatlese contains a mere 7% alcohol, its high must weight and early petering-out of fermentation both in large part attributable to botrytis. Eleven grams of finished acidity are in a tense stand-off here with 100 grams of residual sugar. Candied apple, candied lime zest, tart lime juice and honey manage to be both quickening and luscious, not to mention persistent. This ought to be fascinating to revisit in a few years, and I suspect that it will remain resilient for the better part of two decades. Theo and Johannes Haart commenced harvesting already in mid-October, no later than they had last year, and were finished by month’s end. Their diversity of sites permitted a significant amount of genuine Kabinett to be picked as well as concentrated high must-weight and ennobled bottlings. De-acidification was performed with double-salt on the must, generally affecting only certain lots of an eventual cuvee. Many 2010 collections displayed – as their wines’ levels of Oechsle climbed into the stratosphere – a falling-away, if not of ultimate quality, then certainly of my confidence in it; but in the present instance, that happened only after some impressive successes had been racked up along the way. With a couple of exceptions that were entirely botrytis-free and fermented rapidly, most of this year’s collection was bottled in July and August, significantly later than usual. Incidentally, both the Haarts and Andreas Adam report that wild boar – an increasing problem throughout the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer – have reached such destructive proportions in Piesport that there is talk of trying to erect a huge fence around the entirety of this famous village’s prime acreage.”Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596- 9463