There’s a distinct onion-skin color, and you can smell the Pinot Noir in the raspberry and strawberry aromas that are accented with white chocolate and toasty spices. Rather full-bodied, lush and opulent. There’s something almost syrupy about it, in a good way. But it’s still crisp and dry, and has a Champagne lightness. ——S.H.(12/1/2000)—— 90