Sassotondo’s 2004 Sovana Rosso Superiore Franze is 100% Sangiovese that spent 24 months in French oak. It presents the weighty expression of Sangiovese typical of Maremma. There is plenty of dark fruit, but the wine also possesses the firmer tannic spine of Sangiovese. This is a beautifully crafted wine, yet it doesn’t have the compelling personality of the estate’s Ciliegiolo San Lorenzo. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020.Sassotondo is another of the small properties making terrific wines under the direction of consulting oenologist Attilio Pagli. In particular, I consider the estate’s Ciliegiolo San Lorenzo a reference-point wine for this variety.Importer: Villa Italia Imports, South San Francisco, CA; tel. (650) 873-6060