Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Nahe, Germany

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Diel 2010 年的 Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs 展現(xiàn)了一種甘美、誘人的味道，這樣一種味道通常會(huì)讓人聯(lián)想到富含石英巖的土壤，這也使得此款酒異于其同系列的酒?；鹚?、煙熏和白堊的味道給這款富有礦物質(zhì)風(fēng)味的酒增添了 Chablis 的氣息，同時(shí)這款酒還含有豐富的桃子氣息和微妙的藥草味。

Distilled pit fruits, nut oils, and fruit pits along with black tea make for a high-toned aromatic display in the Diels’ 2009 Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs. Peat, black tea, and crushed stone lend a smoky aura as well, which persists on a juicy, invigorating palate that benefits from its slight diminution in alcohol vis-a-vis the 13% of its three fellow-Grosse Gewachse. There is an interactive resonance and intriguing depth to the enormously long finish of this subtly creamily-textured yet persistently brightly pit-fruited Riesling that promises being worth following for the better part of a decade. Caroline Diel’s 2009 collection is noteworthy not only for a range of outstanding Riesling such as has long been anticipated (though seldom bettered) at this estate, but also for a set of wines from the Pinot family – all, incidentally, now labeled with French rather than German names for their varieties – that in my estimation mark a significant up-tick in quality. That this estate has been famous in Germany for its work with Pinots ever since Armin Diel assumed charge in 1987 and began barrique vinification, I am of course well aware. But only in recent years have I witnessed tendencies to restrain the influence of new wood and to encourage real subtlety, which seem to me prerequisites for achieving with these varieties anything remotely approaching the class of Schlossgut Diel’s Rieslings. The 2009 Pinots were harvested in mid-October and most of the Rieslings in the two weeks following. The superb botrytis selections were all picked-out ahead of even the Pinots.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Diel calls his 2008 Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs the grand old gentleman of its vintage. I’d emphasize its Burgundian structural amplitude; silken texture; and understated flavors of milled grain; toasted almond, pistachio, and hazelnut; white peach; peach kernel; lemon; and chalk. This is long and refined, with persistent sap and energy yet great subtlety; richness yet buoyancy. It will be worth following for at least a dozen years. Caroline Diel is taking the reins at her family’s estate, and results in 2008 are as impressive as one would have expected given the track record at this address. The team here did not start harvesting until the third week in October and picked for nearly a month, due to which lateness the measurable acid levels (which were not adjusted) were relatively low by vintage standards, but the impression of acidity was more than vivacious and efficacious enough. On a quest for purity and authenticity, the Diels did not include in their bench trials for the blending of Grosse Gewachse any small lots of off-dry wine such as might in past have been employed expressly to fine-tune the finished levels of residual sugar. Instead, they let the blends all remain quite dry. Armin Diel has for at least the past dozen years championed and cherished the Mosel stylistic ideals of delicacy and of high residual sugar balanced against acidity. His choices of Mosel-born cellar master Martin Franzen (now of Muller-Catoir), and more recently of Moselaner Christoph Friedrich, testify to this proclivity. But there has never been a better vintage in which to give these ideals fluid realization. So if you are a lover of Kabinetts and Spatlesen from the likes of Joh. Jos. Prum, Willi Schaefer, or the Haags, do not miss the show Caroline and Armin Diel have put on this year, and that could be playing in your cellar any night over the next two decades!Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300