Weingut Andreas Schmitges 'vom Roten Schiefer' Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany

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The Schmitges 2009 Riesling Kabinett Vom Roten Schiefer – for more about whose distinctive origins in the Rachtiger Deutschherrenberg vineyard, consult my review of the 2008 in issue 187 – unites tartly fresh and candied aspects of lemon, quince, and pear with hints of pungent herbs and a rivulet of honey. Distinctive spritz of CO2 adds to the refreshment of this luscious, low alcohol, supportively but not blatantly sweet Kabinett (even given 53 grams residual sugar), which Schmitges, to my amazement, says he is having some success selling to Germans. This hasn’t the textural allure or mineral intrigue of the dry-tasting “Von der Lay” Kabinett, but will certainly offer lots of satisfaction over the next 6-8 years if not longer. Wines from this site do not have an established track-record in the hands of any historically significant growers. “My father was going crazy in October,” says Andreas Schmitges, because contrary to normal practice “we were harvesting Monday through Thursday and then just working in the cellar or the vinotec over the weekend, all under beautiful skies, while he’s shuffling his feet and thinking ‘Hey, folks, at some point this lovely weather is going to be over.’ But our forecasters were reliable and the weather held as long as we needed,” he claimed, which in his case was until November 10. Schmitges relates that – in part under the influence of Mosel practices in a bygone era; in part based on “intensive exchange with Austrian colleagues,notably Peter Veyder-Malberg, over the last five years” – he now gives his musts destined for dry wines increasing skin contact and opportunity to oxidize before the onset of fermentations, which he allows to rise higher in temperature than is usual today on the Mosel. He also acknowledges a recognition that accumulation of degrees Oechsle can nowadays be problematic, for which reason his approach to soil management (including deep plowing and carefully-targeted greening); pruning; picking (“paying careful attention to acid-retention but also ripeness of acids”); and vinification (including spontaneous fermentation and longer lees contact) is reflecting increasing watchfulness lest wines become “too lush” or noticeably high in alcohol.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544

A light, refreshing style of kabinett, with a floral, perfumed nose, ripe fruit flavors of apple and peach, plenty of citrus for balance and even a hint of crushed stone to add complexity. It’s easy-drinking, perfect for summer sipping.——J.C.(6/1/2011)—— 89

The 2008 Riesling Kabinett Vom Roten Schiefer once again originates in gently sloping red slate of the Deutschherrenberg vineyard, a cool spot that receives only morning and early afternoon sunshine, but whose fruit – thanks to careful canopy and yield management – Schmitges harvested at the same time and with comparable must weight to his Kabinett grapes from Treppchen. Due to acidity efficacious even by Riesling standards, 54 grams of residual sugar come off as not awkwardly sweet, nor the wine as sweet-sour bifurcated. Pungently herbal throughout, with juicy honeydew melon, lemon, and orange tinged with mint and sassafras, this is delicate, buoyant, and underlain by wet stone – in short, a classic, capital “K” Mosel Kabinett that should keep well for at least a decade. Andreas Schmitges worked with a combination of spontaneous fermentation and judicious yeasting to render his dry wine-dominated 2008 collection, one which struck me as somewhat short-changing the vintage’s inherent virtues. An example of this is his decision to chaptalize his Riesling Grauschiefer up to 13% for the sake of stylistic continuity.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544

Opens in an offbeat (in a good way) style, with cantaloupe, orange, chamomile and newly mown hay scents that give way to more classic flavors of wet stones and apricot in the mouth. There’s quite a bit of residual sugar here but the crisp acidity results in a fairly dry finish. Drink now to 2011. ——W.E.(6/1/2010)—— 86