Schmitges’ “two star” 2007 Erdener Pralat Riesling Spatlese feinherb Alte Reben Spatlese from the upper of two parcels he has in this great site – smells slightly alkaline and fusil, as well as of ripe peach, honeydew melon, brown spices, citrus zest, green gunpowder tea, and musk. The wine is analytically low in acidity (especially for a 2007) but Schmitges speculates that an element of succinic acid plays a role in keeping it refreshing and sharply defined in flavor. And surprisingly, this has a relatively firm and far from creamy texture, evincing in its long finish clarity of fruit and saline and wet stone mineral traits such as one seldom encounters from this site. This should be worth following for at least 15 years. Andreas Schmitges has just completed an impressive restoration of his family’s former house as a tasting room, and in viticulturally relevant respects, too, he continues to display healthy ambition, which is fortunately justified by excellent wines that keep getting even better.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544.