The 2004 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett smells lip-smackingly of lime and tangerine, then comes onto the palate silken in feel but full of tingling, invigorating acidity and mineral nuance. Subtle nut oil, wet stone, and smoky flavors underlie this wine’s juicy fruit and inform an impressively refined finish. Also recommended: 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett trocken ($ unknown; 85), 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese trocken ($ unknown; 84).Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463; Kerlin Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 442-1136; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO; tel. (720) 272-6544