The 2004 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese Selektion A.P. #14 – which I tasted in late 2005 – smelled alluringly of citrus and of some sweet, resinous herbal elixir. In the mouth, it reminded me of orange cream studded with candied lemon rind and drizzled with honey. Dense and rich in the mouth, with a subtle integration of vanilla and of botrytis honey and spice, this nevertheless is shot through with vividly juicy, refreshing citricity. Both oily and juicy in its finish, this superb Spatlese is Auslese in all but name, and I would not hesitate to hold it for at least two decades. Also recommended: 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett trocken ($ unknown; 85), 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese trocken ($ unknown; 84).Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463; Kerlin Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 442-1136; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO; tel. (720) 272-6544