In what I hope is not only a sign of Schmitges success and confidence with this style but also of sensible, anti-schizoid trends in German Riesling appreciation, his 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese feinherb represents a new bottling at this address. It comes from one of two parcels he acquired from among many that belonged to a retirement-age local vintner whom Schmitges asked to “give me two days before you sell to somebody outside, to settle this among the young vintners in the village. I chose west-facing, not south-facing acreage that wouldn’t get too hot, and was traversed by red slate” he adds. This fermented spontaneously to 20 grams residual sugar in a 2,000 tank (although Schmitges is among many young vintners who would like to acquire some fudern if he could find sanitary, well-tended ones for sale). Musk oil, narcissus, orange blossom, and smoky black tea aromas rise from the glass. An oily slick and creamy texture by no means preclude citric refreshment on the palate, along with ravishingly persistent inner-mouth floral perfume and pungent spice and smoke. This finishes long on salted pistachios, orange zest, and honey, and can for practical purposes be treated as a dry wine. I would anticipate finding it highly versatile, and following it successfully for at least a decade. Andreas Schmitges has just completed an impressive restoration of his family’s former house as a tasting room, and in viticulturally relevant respects, too, he continues to display healthy ambition, which is fortunately justified by excellent wines that keep getting even better.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544.