Schmitges Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese 2 star

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Although picked near the end of his harvest, Schmitges points out that his “two star” 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese 2 Star from ungrafted vines (now very rare in Treppchen) – quite typically for 2007 – came in at close to the same must weight as nearby parcels harvested nearly three weeks earlier for dry wine. White peach, grapefruit, orange, and honey in the nose and on the palate inform this by turns silken and strikingly creamy Riesling possessed of a wafting elegance and honeysuckle- and lily-like inner-mouth floral perfume. It finishes lushly; loaded with peach, citrus, and flowers; and with suggestions of honey and marzipan, yet well-balanced sweetness and an invigoratingly saline, shimmering suggestion of mineral matter. You can taste the tiny, golden, barely botrytis-tinged berries from which this was harvested, yet – to reiterate – the considerable extra measure of ripeness in this remarkable wine was accompanied by scarcely any increase in must weight. This phenomenal value should prove to be at least a 12-15 year keeper. Andreas Schmitges has just completed an impressive restoration of his family’s former house as a tasting room, and in viticulturally relevant respects, too, he continues to display healthy ambition, which is fortunately justified by excellent wines that keep getting even better.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544.

Schmitges- -two star- 2006 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese fills the nose and mouth with orange and honey, wreathed in sweetly aromatic herbs and dusted with brown spices. Glycerin- and fructose-rich and loaded with CO2, this polished wine finishes like an orange creamsicle and nougat studded with licorice, and betraying just a hint of caramel. If that sounds awfully confectionary, there is a lot of youthful sweetness, but also pure, clear flavors, and plenty of pep from ample acicity and high CO2. I estimate this will be best enjoyed between ages 8-15. Now that the young vines in restructured and wholesale re-planted Treppchen have had 15 years or so, Schmitges opines, they are starting to show the sites true colors and potential again. The vines in this parcel are ungrafted and tiny-berries. A measure of the advantages of a small, ambitious family winery with lots of local connections, Schmittges was able to pick his entire crop in just nine days.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO; tel. (720) 272-6544.

As if Schmitges’ 2004 Treppchen Spatlese A.P. #14 were not Auslese-like enough, the two stars on the label of his 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese** points to a wine of over 100 degrees Oechsle, but this was only in his mid-range of must weights for this vintage. Here is another Schmitges Riesling that deftly combines on the palate creaminess of texture with juicy fresh fruit and citricity. Hints of citrus zest and wood smoke add further interest to the flavors and wet stone underlies an elegant and refined finish that is both caressing and invigorating. This represents excellent value. Also recommended: 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett trocken ($ unknown; 85), 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese trocken ($ unknown; 84).Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463; Kerlin Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 442-1136; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO; tel. (720) 272-6544