Schmitges’ “three star” 2005 Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese*** Alte Reben – from approximately 50% botrytised fruit in the lower reaches of this towering site – smells of blood orange, honey, and vanilla. Its creamy, enveloping richness does not preclude refreshing juiciness, crystalline clarity of fruit, as well as wet stone and salty minerality. Blood orange, tangerine, white peach, honey, and vanilla are all rather viscous yet somehow light on the palate. A nougat-like nut cream, honey, and spice character on the palate and a wreath of distilled herbs add complexity from botrytis without the least bit of bitterness or coarser manifestations of rot. The finish is book-length. Do not hesitate to track down some of this exceptional wine, nor to chain it in your cellar for three or more decades! Also recommended: 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett trocken ($ unknown; 85), 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese trocken ($ unknown; 84).Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463; Kerlin Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 442-1136; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO; tel. (720) 272-6544