Although the names have changed a bit – the 2006 version of this wine was labeled “one star Auslese Alte Reben” – Schmitges’ 2007 Erdener Pralat Riesling Spatlese feinherb Alte Reben follows the same prescription, namely to achieve a wine of around 12-12.5% alcohol with barely-noticeable sweetness, based on cool, slow, spontaneous fermentation. Mysteriously musky and floral as well as citrus notes in the nose lead to a palate of creamy richness yet refreshment, with lime and orange backed by honey and suffused with smoky crushed stone. The palpable sense of both richness and minerality offer a dynamic counterpoint in this Pralat’s long finish. I am looking forward to at least a decade’s excitement from this, although once again, the track record has not yet been established. This is only the second year for such a wine (of which there are only 250 liters), and Schmitges says that in terms of spontaneous fermentations generally, he was not ready to attempt them until recently, after having spent a few years working his vineyards more responsibly with the intent of encourage native yeast populations. Andreas Schmitges has just completed an impressive restoration of his family’s former house as a tasting room, and in viticulturally relevant respects, too, he continues to display healthy ambition, which is fortunately justified by excellent wines that keep getting even better.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544.
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