Weingut Andreas Schmitges Erdener Treppchen Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, Mosel, Germany

點擊次數(shù)：1924

Schmitges’ 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese was harvested by him personally, ranging over all of his parcels in Treppchen, then processed with a basket press in successive, overlapping tiny lots that allowed for long skin contact. It was so hard to extract the juice that Schmitges followed Clemens Busch suggestion and poured in some bottled T.B.A. to encourage the process. His entire experiment succeeded! Candied tangerine rind, honey, white truffle, wood smoke, and black tea in the nose lead to an amazingly delicate yet creamy, viscous palate of marzipan, candied citrus, and honey, followed by a protracted, admittedly enormously sweet finish of strikingly pure fruit and subtle, noble botrytis honey, white raisin, and truffle. I expect this has 25 or more years of very active life ahead of it.Andreas Schmitges has just completed an impressive restoration of his family’s former house as a tasting room, and in viticulturally relevant respects, too, he continues to display healthy ambition, which is fortunately justified by excellent wines that keep getting even better.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544.

Schmitges’ 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese – representing a true berry selection – smells intensely of apricot and peach, and comes onto the palate with enveloping richness, flattering creaminess, and apricot, peach, nut paste, and a whiff of truffle. This displays the clarity of fruit and the lift and elegance of the best 2005s, and even a hint of wet stones and smoky red slate nuances are in evidence in the long, fabulously rich finish, which should last for a half century and will doubtless pick up additional complexity after it has had even just a few months in bottle.Also recommended: 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett trocken ($ unknown; 85), 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese trocken ($ unknown; 84).Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463; Kerlin Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 442-1136; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO; tel. (720) 272-6544