Schmitges Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese 2 star

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1374

From grapes in two parcels he usually reserves for Auslese and whose grapes this year, he reports, were only lightly-botrytized, Schmitges’ “two-star” 2009 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese** displays delicacy and lift, with well-integrated sweetness even given both 106 grams residual sugar and a gentler acidity with less cut than characterizes most of the present collection. Musk melon and quince dominate a pure, soothing if unemphatic and uncannily well-balanced performance whose luscious length helps to make up for a certain lack of complexity. I suspect this will hold up well for at least 20 years, though whether it will acquire significant additional flavor interest I do not feel capable of judging. “My father was going crazy in October,” says Andreas Schmitges, because contrary to normal practice “we were harvesting Monday through Thursday and then just working in the cellar or the vinotec over the weekend, all under beautiful skies, while he’s shuffling his feet and thinking ‘Hey, folks, at some point this lovely weather is going to be over.’ But our forecasters were reliable and the weather held as long as we needed,” he claimed, which in his case was until November 10. Schmitges relates that – in part under the influence of Mosel practices in a bygone era; in part based on “intensive exchange with Austrian colleagues,notably Peter Veyder-Malberg, over the last five years” – he now gives his musts destined for dry wines increasing skin contact and opportunity to oxidize before the onset of fermentations, which he allows to rise higher in temperature than is usual today on the Mosel. He also acknowledges a recognition that accumulation of degrees Oechsle can nowadays be problematic, for which reason his approach to soil management (including deep plowing and carefully-targeted greening); pruning; picking (“paying careful attention to acid-retention but also ripeness of acids”); and vinification (including spontaneous fermentation and longer lees contact) is reflecting increasing watchfulness lest wines become “too lush” or noticeably high in alcohol.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544

The -two star- 2006 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese comes from a stony section above the reconstructed Roman press replanted with selection of Riesling Schmitges knew would promote acid retention and thus support residually sweet wine. With pink grapefruit and mint worthy of the gaudiest of Scheurebe, and white raisin and honey tone one would expect from a Beerenauslese, this displays an uncanny combination of creamy, honeyed, caramelized richness with delicacy and juicy generosity. Sassafras and licorice join the colorful procession toward an impressively long and not overly sweet finish. This deserves a decade in bottle and should weather at least two. A measure of the advantages of a small, ambitious family winery with lots of local connections, Schmittges was able to pick his entire crop in just nine days.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO; tel. (720) 272-6544.