Schmitges Erdener Pralat Riesling Riesling Auslese Three Star

點擊次數(shù)：1299

Representing botrytized bunches culled in the process of selecting for the corresponding Grosses Gewachs, Schmitges’ auctioned “three-star” 2009 Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese*** is alluringly scented with vine flower jelly, orange blossom, buckwheat honey, and herbal liqueur accompanied by suggestions of candied citrus and peach preserves. The palate exudes orange marmalade, candied lemon rind, and peach preserves, fortuitously laced with fresh lemon that invigorates and helps balance high residual sugar. Further counterpoint to the wine’s sheer ripeness and honeyed sweetness is lent by a metaphorically if not also literally cooling influence of mint and sassafras as they waft over the sappy, subtly oily palate, and by an invigoratingly saline streak in the wine’s luscious, saliva-inducing finish. Expect this to be worth following for at least 25 years. “My father was going crazy in October,” says Andreas Schmitges, because contrary to normal practice “we were harvesting Monday through Thursday and then just working in the cellar or the vinotec over the weekend, all under beautiful skies, while he’s shuffling his feet and thinking ‘Hey, folks, at some point this lovely weather is going to be over.’ But our forecasters were reliable and the weather held as long as we needed,” he claimed, which in his case was until November 10. Schmitges relates that – in part under the influence of Mosel practices in a bygone era; in part based on “intensive exchange with Austrian colleagues,notably Peter Veyder-Malberg, over the last five years” – he now gives his musts destined for dry wines increasing skin contact and opportunity to oxidize before the onset of fermentations, which he allows to rise higher in temperature than is usual today on the Mosel. He also acknowledges a recognition that accumulation of degrees Oechsle can nowadays be problematic, for which reason his approach to soil management (including deep plowing and carefully-targeted greening); pruning; picking (“paying careful attention to acid-retention but also ripeness of acids”); and vinification (including spontaneous fermentation and longer lees contact) is reflecting increasing watchfulness lest wines become “too lush” or noticeably high in alcohol.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544