Schmitges Feinherb Riesling, Mosel, Germany

斯科米基斯酒莊費因赫伯雷司令干白葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：4673

Schmitges’ generic 2009 Riesling – coming entirely from the cool, high-elevation Erdener Herrenberg – is now labeled “Vom Berg” and “feinherb” outside the U.S., in keeping with its author’s intention to give his cuvees names customers will remember and to encourage his countrymen to explore Riesling beyond the borders of Trockenheit. For this cuvee, Schmitges – who likes to think schematically – envisions a ration of at most three-to-one residual sugar-to-acidity, so that the results can virtually be treated as dry-tasting. Lemon and orange blossom in the nose here anticipate a bright, juicily citric palate that leads to a persistently refreshing finish. Treppchen-typical suggestions of sassafras and crushed stone add interest to a lip-smackingly good value for enjoying over the next 3-4 years. Schmitges says he restrained his urge to harvest these grapes, waiting to let the acids ripen, so that even if total analytical levels diminished, the proportion of efficacious tartaric acid increased. It certainly worked, considering the sappy vivacity on display here. And at 11.5% alcohol, this counts as light when compared with the corresponding Grauschiefer trocken bottling.“My father was going crazy in October,” says Andreas Schmitges, because contrary to normal practice “we were harvesting Monday through Thursday and then just working in the cellar or the vinotec over the weekend, all under beautiful skies, while he’s shuffling his feet and thinking ‘Hey, folks, at some point this lovely weather is going to be over.’ But our forecasters were reliable and the weather held as long as we needed,” he claimed, which in his case was until November 10. Schmitges relates that – in part under the influence of Mosel practices in a bygone era; in part based on “intensive exchange with Austrian colleagues,notably Peter Veyder-Malberg, over the last five years” – he now gives his musts destined for dry wines increasing skin contact and opportunity to oxidize before the onset of fermentations, which he allows to rise higher in temperature than is usual today on the Mosel. He also acknowledges a recognition that accumulation of degrees Oechsle can nowadays be problematic, for which reason his approach to soil management (including deep plowing and carefully-targeted greening); pruning; picking (“paying careful attention to acid-retention but also ripeness of acids”); and vinification (including spontaneous fermentation and longer lees contact) is reflecting increasing watchfulness lest wines become “too lush” or noticeably high in alcohol.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544

Schmitges’ 2008 Riesling feinherb smells Erden-typically of orange and grapefruit rind with brown spices, although it in fact originates in steep, riverside slate slopes of neighboring Losnich. Sappy, substantial (at 11.5% alcohol) and dry-tasting, I wonder whether it might not have been more elegant if left with a bit more residual sugar. Still, the combination of stuffing with refreshment and the persistence of citrus and spice are quite satisfying and should remain so for 3-4 years. Andreas Schmitges worked with a combination of spontaneous fermentation and judicious yeasting to render his dry wine-dominated 2008 collection, one which struck me as somewhat short-changing the vintage’s inherent virtues. An example of this is his decision to chaptalize his Riesling Grauschiefer up to 13% for the sake of stylistic continuity.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544

Schmitges’ 2007 Riesling – labeled feinherb in some markets, and coming strictly from the Herrenberg (high above the Treppchen) – smells fetchingly of orange blossom, talcum, and heliotrope. For this cuvee, he says he has adopted the working formula “residual sugar = acidity x 3.” It works in this instance! Possessing a luscious sense of juicy citricity, with subtly oily texture but no obvious bitterness; honeyed yet not in the least overtly sweet, this terrific value (on which Schmitges and his importers seem to have conspired to drop the price slightly) finishes impressively and both rich and refreshing. Enjoy it anytime over the next 3-4 years. Andreas Schmitges has just completed an impressive restoration of his family’s former house as a tasting room, and in viticulturally relevant respects, too, he continues to display healthy ambition, which is fortunately justified by excellent wines that keep getting even better.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544.

From the Herrenberg, high above the Treppchen, Schmitges- 2006 Riesling - labeled -feinherb- in Germany but not the States, displays orange citricity and a stony mineral diffusion. This isn't notably sweet, but the residual sugar having brought down the alcohol makes this more expressive, juicy, and ultimately (for those of an open and experimental mind) more useful in accompanying diverse cuisine. There is still a sense of stuffing (no Kabinett-type this) as well as stony underpinnings. Furthermore, this is an excellent value. A measure of the advantages of a small, ambitious family winery with lots of local connections, Schmittges was able to pick his entire crop in just nine days.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO; tel. (720) 272-6544.

A generic 2005 Riesling – labeled “feinherb” in Germany but not the states – comes entirely from the Herrenberg. This smells of wood smoke and high-toned citrus oil. A lemony brightness and a lightly sizzling tactile note of fruit skin and mineral mark the juicy satisfying palate impression of this excellent value. Also recommended: 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett trocken ($ unknown; 85), 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese trocken ($ unknown; 84).Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463; Kerlin Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 442-1136; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO; tel. (720) 272-6544