Aromas of fresh green straw and citrus set the stage for a mouth full of grass and citrus, which may sound strange, but it’s what we found. The finish is tangy and hard-edged, but a touch of sweetness saves it from a worse fate and actually brings the wine to a good finish. About 40% of the cuvee was barrel fermented, which gives it a softer feel than it might otherwise have.——W.E.(7/1/2003)—— 86