The 1997 Barbaresco Gaia Principe Vigna del Salto is intensely fragrant (cherry jam and smoked herbs). A full-bodied powerhouse, it exhibits teeth-staining extract, but there is not a hard edge to be found. The alcohol is close to 14.5%, and the wine is low in acidity with gobs of glycerin, fruit, and personality. It is a sumptuous, mouth-filling Barbaresco that is impossible to resist. Anticipated maturity: now-2012. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411