St Antony Niersteiner Oelberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs

點擊次數(shù)：2088

The 2006 Niersteiner Oelberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs smells of mint, oregano, narcissus, lemon zest, and smoked meats. Smoky, herbal, and citrus zesty pungency allied to saline and stony minerality are the palate themes, leading to an impressively long if anything-but-soothing finish. This bright yet positively lees-enriched wine is worth following for at least 6-8 years, during which it might well gain in stature. A well-concentrated Orbel Grosses Gewachs was mineral-toned, faintly bitter, and rather austere. Magnate Detlev Meyer purchased the St. Antony winery in 2005 and the 2006s were made under the direction of his new team, headed by young Felix Peters, who is also responsible for the wines of Freiherr Heyl zu Herrensheim, made in the same, newly-acquired cellars. From 2008, the wines of St. Antony will not indicate “Weingut” or estate-bottling, as the authorities determined that the wines of two estates could not be estate-bottled in the same cellar, even though great pains had been taken to separate them physically in the spacious facility. There was as yet slight indication from the 2006 collection of a return to the distinctive and outstanding quality that characterized St. Antony’s (almost exclusively dry) wines throughout the 1990s. “After the rain hit October 3, like everyone else we had to act quickly and take control as best we could,” is how Peters describes harvest circumstances.No U.S. importer.

The 2004 Niersteiner Oelberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs is the most expressive and best balanced of this year’s collection, with penetrating, pungent and lightly musky aromas. Clear citrus and herb flavors are underlain by toasted nuts and accented by a peppery and tactile sense of minerality that reminds me of a Gruner Veltliner from the Wachau. At the same time, there is a satisfying underlying creaminess that contrasts, but also blends nicely with the bright acids and nippy phenolics. The finish is meaty and substantial with sage, grapefruit rind, toasted nut and white pepper complexity.No U.S. importer currently.