From more than a week’s worth of selection in early October came 50 liters of 2003 Niersteiner Orbel Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese. Long-time St. Antony cellar master Rainer Struckmeier explained that he didn’t want a wine with off-the-charts residual sugar and did want lots of lees contact and development, so he has allowed the wine to ferment for nearly a year. It’s at around 10.5% alcohol now – high for the genre – and the team has about decided to call it quits and bottle. The result is a wine with the sort of balance typical of a Rhine Riesling T.B.A. prior to 1971. The nose is fascinatingly smoky, carnal, leathery, and redolent of tropical and dried pit fruits, berries and spices. The fine-grained, creamy-textured palate impression is viscous and substantial, yet not heavy. Nor is the wine particularly sweet, its fruit flavors of candied pineapple, butterscotch, mango and plum paste, tinged with salt, spices and Syrah- or Mourvedre-like notes of smoked meat, beef marrow, leather and soy. The finish is Wagnerian both in length and rich, harmonic complexity.No U.S. importer currently.