St. Antony’s 2006 Niersteiner Orbel Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule offers musky, floral, quince preserve and herbal distillate aromas, with apricot, quince, caramel, citrus- herbal-candy character on the palate. A nice sense of lift and delicacy is allied to a flatteringly creamy feel, hints of brown spices, and impressively persistent juiciness. This is not at all an obvious or overtly botrytized Auslese, but rather a refined, soft- (but well-) spoken one. Quite the opposite of this wine as an “old vines” Oelberg Trockenbeerenauslese of blatant, pungent botyrtization, striking viscosity, and in the early months after its bottling when I tasted it, still very much marked by its lees, fermentative aromas, and dose of sulfur.Magnate Detlev Meyer purchased the St. Antony winery in 2005 and the 2006s were made under the direction of his new team, headed by young Felix Peters, who is also responsible for the wines of Freiherr Heyl zu Herrensheim, made in the same, newly-acquired cellars. From 2008, the wines of St. Antony will not indicate “Weingut” or estate-bottling, as the authorities determined that the wines of two estates could not be estate-bottled in the same cellar, even though great pains had been taken to separate them physically in the spacious facility. There was as yet slight indication from the 2006 collection of a return to the distinctive and outstanding quality that characterized St. Antony’s (almost exclusively dry) wines throughout the 1990s. “After the rain hit October 3, like everyone else we had to act quickly and take control as best we could,” is how Peters describes harvest circumstances.No U.S. importer.