The 2004 Riesling trocken “Vom Rotliegenden – PE” is generically labeled, yet with letters abbreviating its vineyard of origin – “Pettental.” This is one of numerous examples where the use of the vineyard name on the label is said to be ruled out by regional V.D.P. practices because that name is supposed to only appear on the label of wines referred to as “Grosses Gewachs.” Not, mind you, that the latter may be labeled with the words “Grosses Gewachs.” German wine law doesn’t permit that. Who thinks these things up? Let’s just taste the wine by any name! In the nose it offers lemon oil, floral and herbal distillates, honey, and pungent smoked meat. Juicy, honeyed and full of ripe fruit on the palate, with incipient creaminess, it manages to avoid the under-ripe acids, astringency or austerity that plague all too many dry German Rieslings. The finish here is smoky, sappy and satisfying. No U.S. importer currently.