St Antony Riesling P

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St. Antony has voluntarily done something on the label of their 2007 Riesling P. that certain branches of the VDP growers organization have at times seemed to favor, namely deny the origins of a wine from a great vineyard simply because it had the temerity not to finish trocken. There is already a Pettental Grosses Gewachs bottling, and the estate was evidently not keen on any alternate means for describing this other wine, such as for instance “Niersteiner Pettental Spatlese feinherb.” Nonetheless, here is a virtually dry-tasting and delicious representation of its site, and to my taste it’s simply a good, “old-fashioned” (as in “pre-1970s”) Spatlese. Smoke-, white pepper-, and citrus zest-tinged, honey-glazed tangerine inform a pungent nose and an admirably-concentrated, subtly-oily, bitter-sweet palate. There could be greater clarity and sheer refreshment to the finish, but this should prove versatile and satisfying for at least 6-8 years. As reported in issue 179, magnate Detlev Meyer purchased the St. Antony winery in 2005, and his new team – headed by young Felix Peters – is also responsible for the wines of Freiherr Heyl zu Herrensheim. Future St. Antony wines will not indicate "Weingut" or estate-bottling on their labels, as the authorities determined that the wines of two estates could not be estate-bottled in the same cellar, even though great pains had been taken to separate them physically in the spacious facility. As this was for years a personal favorite source for dry Riesling, I regret having to report that recent wines have neither re-captured the style that prevailed under the former regime at its best nor as yet succeeded in a clear stylistic statement of their own, which hopefully time will bring. The 2007s here – of which the top Rieslings were harvested in the second week of October – are as a group slightly finer than the 2006s, but then, vintage conditions not to mention the 2006s having been harvested by a team assembled at the last minute would have predicted as much. TNo known U.S. importer