Tedeschi Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva DOCG, Veneto, Italy

特德斯奇酒莊奧爾米山經(jīng)典珍藏阿瑪羅尼紅葡萄酒

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One of the top wines in the Tedeschi portfolio, the 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Capitel Monte Olmi brings the intensity threshold up significantly in terms of fruit weight, power and alcohol (measured at 17% here). Dark fruit and plum are folded into candied fruit and cherry liqueur. The tannins are present, for sure, but expertly integrated to show no bitterness or astringency. In fact, the mouthfeel is probably the best and most unique feature of this wine. This is a 12,000-bottle release.

The Tedeschi 2015 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Capitel Monte Olmi is brawnier, heavier and shows even more tarry spice than we saw in the 2013 vintage that I tasted at the same time. Aged in oak casks for four years, the blend is 30% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella and 10% complementary grapes from a 2.5-hectare vineyard with calcareous marl soils with streaks of yellow. This Riserva also shows more ripeness and ultimately more sweetness with cherry cola on the close. Production is 8,000 bottles.

The Tedeschi 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Capitel Monte Olmi is rich and fully intense in a manner only achieved with air-dried fruit in which each cluster is dehydrated to offer more pulp, sugar and alcohol. The Tedeschi family does a great job, and they make some of the most robust and age-worthy bottles you can find. This is a blend of 30% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella and 10% complementary grapes. Aging takes place in Slavonian oak casks and lasts for 48 months. The wine opens to densely extracted blackberry and plum and plenty of exotic spice with tar, cardamom and cola. Production in this vintage is limited to 9,000 bottles.

The 2012 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Capitel Monte Olmi shows huge intensity over a robust mouthfeel. I love that eucalyptus balsamic note that comes up at the top, rounded off by softer notes of chocolate and tobacco. The blend is 30% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella and a 10% selection of Oseleta, Negrara, Dindarella, Croatina and Forselina. Aging takes place in large Slavonian oak casks. This is a powerful, full-bodied wine with a knockout 17% alcohol punch that makes no apologies for its strength. It comes forward with pride and boastfulness. This wine will hold for a decade or more. Production is bigger than the 2011 vintage at 13,000 bottles.

If you like big Amarones, this one is big with a capital B. The most robust and powerful of the bunch, the 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Capitel Monte Olmi is also sophisticated and integrated, despite its huge alcohol content at 17%. I knew the alcohol was high, but I would have never guessed it was that high, and that speaks to the relative balance achieved here. It is sweet, robust and richly layered and textured in the mouth. This is a huge wine that will make you very happy, very fast. The blend is 30% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella and a 10% mix of Oseleta, Negrara, Dindarella, Croatina and Forselina, which comes from the Monte Olmi vineyard in the Pedemonte hills. The grapes are dried for a lengthy four months. This is the estate's flagship label, and it became a Riserva starting with the 2009 vintage. Some 10,000 bottles were made.