Weingut Theo Minges Burrweiler Schlossgarten Riesling Eiswein, Pfalz, Germany

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2090

Theo Minges quotes his wife as having told him; but the 2009 Burrweiler Schlossgarten Riesling Eiswein demonstrates that, fortunately, he didn’t take her advice. His photographs show transparent, orange, berries that the next morning were frozen by temperatures as low as -3 degrees F., permitting leisurely picking of fruit that Minges characterized as “perfectly healthy Auslese.” Candied and liqueur-like orange and blood orange rind with a caramel overlay; apricot and quince preserves tinged with fruit pit piquancy, all make for a striking, bittersweet performance in an extremely viscous yet at the same time quickening and buoying matrix. Glazed pineapple and hints of wood smoke add further interest. “Concentrated energy,” Minges calls this with ample justification, but bear in mind that a candied wrapper would also be an appropriate image. This tour de force ought to be worth following for at least a dozen years, during the course of which one could by revisiting it gain a sense for whether it might defy the usual Eiswein odds and be worth holding for significantly longer. Despite picking into November, Theo Minges was one of those Sudpfalzer who had no trouble retaining acidity in 2009. Indeed, some of his dry offerings practically left me wanting to don sunglasses during our tasting session. As has become usual at this address, the collection is enormously diverse (and I do not usually taste nearly all of its non-Riesling members). “There are a lot of growers,” jokes Minges, “who have an enormous range of wines because they don’t sell well, so the grower keeps trying something new. I go out to the vineyard, get inspired, have a vision, and then I feel compelled to carry it out. And this repeats itself however many times …Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300