Theo Minges Burrweiler Schlossgarten Muskateller Spatlese

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A Minges 2009 Burrweiler Schlossgarten Muskateller Spatlese – from the vineyard of (and vinified by) Regina Minges – represents in its pronounced sweetness and seemingly late-harvested richness almost as extreme a rendition of this grape as did its literally bone-dry Kabinett counterpart from the Flemlinger Zechpeter. (In fact, this wasn’t picked especially late – for an account of what remained hanging on these vines, two weeks later please consult my note on the corresponding Auslese.) Mint, boxwood, licorice, and candied lemon rind offer strong aromatic appeal and inform a glossy and expansive palate. The satisfyingly (and for this variety surprisingly) generous primary juiciness – encompassing ripe, fresh apricot and grapefruit – and the sense of lift to the finish, helps mollify this wine’s sense of liqueur-like sweetness, lending a mouth-cleansing, cooling lusciousness. For sipping solo – or if carefully paired – this ought to remain strikingly impressive for at least the next 6-8 years. Despite picking into November, Theo Minges was one of those Sudpfalzer who had no trouble retaining acidity in 2009. Indeed, some of his dry offerings practically left me wanting to don sunglasses during our tasting session. As has become usual at this address, the collection is enormously diverse (and I do not usually taste nearly all of its non-Riesling members). “There are a lot of growers,” jokes Minges, “who have an enormous range of wines because they don’t sell well, so the grower keeps trying something new. I go out to the vineyard, get inspired, have a vision, and then I feel compelled to carry it out. And this repeats itself however many times …Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

From a new parcel to which Minges has gained access and that has become the project of his daughter, the 2007 Burrweiler Schlossgarten Muskateller Spatlese received extended pre-fermentative skin contact, and simply stopped fermenting with distinct residual sugar. The discreet but lovely nose of red currant, grapefruit, and sage here could almost be that of a Ruwer Riesling – or of a Sauvignon Blanc. Red currant jelly and candied grapefruit rind are suggested on the oily palate, and this clings satisfyingly and with well-balanced sweetness. I imagine it would be worth following for at least 4-5 years. For the most part, Theo Minges achieved admirable results in 2007, a vintage he saw as playing into his hand by promoting inherent clarity, nuance, and “energy, so that all you had to do in the cellar was direct it.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300