Theo Minges Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Pfalz, Germany

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” While I found Minges’ Riesling trocken liter bottling strangely disjointed this year and his spine-tingling dry Kabinett from vines of an old Mosel selection grown on chalk in the Flemlinger Zechpeter severely bright in its efficacious acidity, with a 2009 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Kabinett trocken his dry Rieslings at least began to settle into an acid-etched groove. Lemon, grapefruit, and green herbs offer a pungently aromatic display and brightly juicy palate presence with pip and rind bitterness and hints of chalk infusion adding counterpoint to a sassy and satisfyingly sappy finish. I would plan on serving this over the next 2-3 years. Despite picking into November, Theo Minges was one of those Sudpfalzer who had no trouble retaining acidity in 2009. Indeed, some of his dry offerings practically left me wanting to don sunglasses during our tasting session. As has become usual at this address, the collection is enormously diverse (and I do not usually taste nearly all of its non-Riesling members). “There are a lot of growers,” jokes Minges, “who have an enormous range of wines because they don’t sell well, so the grower keeps trying something new. I go out to the vineyard, get inspired, have a vision, and then I feel compelled to carry it out. And this repeats itself however many times …Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

While a dry Kabinett from the Zechpeter was rather austere, Minges’ 2008 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Kabinett trocken offers bright, juicy refreshment, with scents and flavors of lemon and winter squash accompanied by cool, minty high-tones and oceanic alkalinity and salinity. The sense of sap and energy is persistent and infectious. To achieve this sort of satisfaction in a legally trocken Pfalz Riesling along with the lightness of a mere 11% alcohol is admirable, and the result should retain its virtues for several years. I realize I’m mounting my soapbox here and possibly trying your patience, since the following two sentences have been lifted verbatim from my review of the delicious 2007 rendition. If 90+% of Riesling production is going to be legally trocken – which seems to be the norm, by volume, at most Pfalz estates – then why don’t more of them offer a genuine range of style and weight, including a wine like this? Well-concentrated, dynamic dry whites of less than 12% alcohol are not, after all, very numerous nowadays outside of Muscadet, the Savoie, or Danubian Austria. Many of this year’s Minges wines were allowed to ferment spontaneously. “It stopped fermenting where it wanted to,” remarked Theo Minges, about one of several wines that did not go dry as they probably would have with cultured yeasts, adding that he’s being influenced now by the success of his exercise in wine-making passivity known as the “Froschkonig” (for more about which consult my review of that wine in issue 185). Regina Minges was keen to point out that the relatively low alcohol and delicate refreshment achieved in particular at the lower end of the price scale reflects an early November harvest.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The peach, grapefruit and mineral aromas and flavors are showcased in a firm, dry profile. There's intensity, all in a balanced, expressive presentation, with a nice juicy finish. Drink now through 2016.??–BS??Region: Germany / Pfalz Select to Add

Minges’ 2007 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Kabinett trocken is amply endowed with fresh peach and apple; subtly silken in texture; full of lift and vivacity; and displays what I can only call transparency and “crystalline” minerality in a finish of delicate persistence. This should remain delightfully versatile for at least 6-8 years. If 90+% of Riesling production is going to be legally trocken – which seems to be the norm, by production volume, at most Pfalz estates – then why don’t more of them offer a genuine range of style and weight, including a wine like this? Well-concentrated, dynamic, dry non-Riesling whites of less than 12% alcohol are not, after all, very numerous nowadays outside of Muscadet, the Savoie, or Danubian Austria. For the most part, Theo Minges achieved admirable results in 2007, a vintage he saw as playing into his hand by promoting inherent clarity, nuance, and “energy, so that all you had to do in the cellar was direct it.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300